Anemone shrinking

I am currently undertaking a RBTA propagation project and have noticed that there are several reasons that I observe an anemone shrink.  One of those reasons anemones shrink is caused by starvation.  While starvation sounds very harsh and easily avoidable I have noticed in a system with dozens of anemones some of the individual anemones will crawl under or behind rocks out of sight, and therefore miss being fed directly. In this article I will discuss how to recognize a starving anemone and how to hopefully bring them back to full health.

If you are reading this article because you are worried that your own anemone is shrinking the first step is recognizing if it is shrinking from normal waste removal or for a different unhealthy reason.  Before you begin to worry a healthy anemone will frequently deflate to remove waste from its body and over the course of several hours will inflate to its original size.  If your anemone has only been deflated for a few hours then there is probably no cause for alarm.   Anemone waste removal is normal and nothing to worry about.  However, if the anemone stays deflated over the course of a day or longer this indicates a health issue and I would recommend a large water change and running carbon immediately.  I will cover anemone health issues in a later article.




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If your anemone is shrinking but it’s not an issue with deflation then one of the likely culprits is starvation.  Examples of this are shortened tentacles, bleaching in color, and a shrinking diameter. In my particular case 99% of the anemones in the anemone farm are healthy and thriving, for reasons I have not yet identified certain individual anemones will crawl under a rock away from the light and stay there indefinitely.

In the pictures below you will notice that the anemones in this section of the propagation farm are healthy, large, and thriving.  However, just under this rock I found an anemone which was starving to death. Why did this anemone choose to hide in total darkness growing weaker and weaker when the others did not?  Unfortunately, I do not yet have an answer for this but I am working on it.

 

 

Here you can see the starving anemone. The tentacles have shrunken down into small nubs and the color is almost completely diminished. By this point its tentacles will not catch any food.  The only way to feed this poor anemone is to place small pieces of food directly onto the mouth. You must also kill all the current in the tank so that the food doesn’t blow away. When I have an anemone in this state I offer it food daily.  In most cases it will not take food every time but slowly over the course of several weeks it will regain its strength, color, and tentacles.

 

Sadly they do not all make it, but with daily feedings most will be alright. I have seen shrinking anemones in friend’s tanks as well.  Regularly fed anemones were still starving. The reason for this was shrimp or fish were stealing the food from the anemones mouth.  I have also seen problems with hosting clownfish never allowing the anemone to get a meal.  I’m not sure what causes this, but the result is the anemone needs to be separated from the clownfish so it can regain its strength and able to feed on its own.

If you have a starving anemone yourself I hope this article helps you recognize the problem and gives you the information needed to save the animals life.

57 thoughts on “Anemone shrinking

  1. I am a newbie at marine tanks. I have had mine going for a little over a year now and just got my first BTA about two weeks ago. I thank you for this article! I couldn’t figure out why mine kept shriveling up. At first I thought it was hungry so I fed it some chopped shrimp and it gobbled it right down, but the next afternoon he was shriveled again and wouldn’t take more food. I did notice that there seemed to be some debris coming out of his mouth though. Thanks again for the info, now I won’t worry that he is going to die on me daily. One questsion I have though is why he doesn’t have bubbles all the time? The tentacles will inflate but they don’t often have bubbles at the tip. Is this normal? Thanks.

    1. Hi,
      Do not worry if the tenticles are inflated or longer from what i can tell it is not an indicator to the health of your nem. I have several nems all from the same strain in the same container, some have bubble tips some have long tenticles. The only thing i have seen as the most explainable is the flow the nem is getting. Thanks for posting and good luck with your nem!

  2. Hi Tom,

    i have 4 bubble anemones ,, they start to shrink specially at evening and after the lights of!! they didnt act like that before?? plus, when i use to feed them some are eating and some eating then throwing the same food out?? so i stop feeding them!! why the act like that? and is the shrinking is a sign for starvation? and if it is , why they throw the food out ? i feed them fresh-frozen shrimps.

    thank you

    1. Hi Anwar,
      My Nems for the most part shrink when the lights are off, i dont see that as too big of a deal. I have noticed when my nems spit food out it’s usually because i didnt chop it up small enough. I have noticed the best intake of food comes when i blend it down into very small pieces. Try that and see if they will take it better, also make sure its not still frozen. I hope this helps!
      Thanks

      1. Thanks Tom,

        wow you just moved a huge stress of worries 🙂

        yes, some food are a little big.. although nem swallows it.. so i’ll blend it,
        but; in nature dose it eat that small ? in some ved’s i sea a bigger size pieces feeding into nems !!

        and No, not still frozen for sure 😉 .. i keep it in a cup filled with tank water for about an hour or so before feeding the.

        your so helpful .. Thank you

        1. Hi Anwar,
          I used to feed larger pieces of shrimp to my nems as well. I would just tear up shrimp pieces with my fingers. Its been my observation that they process the finely blended up food much better so that is what I do now. Hope everything works out!
          Thanks for writing.

    2. It’s been my experience that they do not all like the same types of food. these are animals. Like any animal, if they do not like a particular food, they won’t eat it or they spit it out. Try different kinds of food until you find one it likes. Mine is suppose to like myso shrimp. Will not eat it. Wants bits of table shrimp and clam. Doesn’t mind krill, but it has to be soaked until soft first and any shell like bits taken off before it’ll accept it. Then, it eats like crazy. You can overfeed too, so watch out for that. Also, don’t force food into nem’s mouth or you can damage internal organs. Hope that helps.

  3. Hi i have 2 anemones now since it happen to split a month after i got it. it has shrunk down like the last picture u have posted here, i have increased the lighting and feed everyday now for about 3-4 weeks. the tenticles are looking a little better but still no huge change. one of them is inbetween 2 rocks and its hard to feed, the other is side ways and i have to hold the food until it grabs it and eats it up. How long do u think it will take for the nems to get better? at night time they blow up like ballons but no tenticles … is there anything else i should be doing? also thanks for the info it does help a lot.

    1. Hi, If you are finding that the nems are hiding the whole time during your lighting period it is possible that they are getting too much light. How many hours are you running your lights and what type of lights? Its very good that your taking care of them by feeding and making sure it’s able to take the food. This could take a few weeks. However if you keep trying to feed it , it sounds like it will probably recover.
      Thanks for the comment and I hope they recover. Let me know about the lighting and maybe we could figure out if the lighting schedule could be turned back a little bit so your nems can stretch out into the light instead of hiding all the time.

  4. Well it was out and then it went into hding mode for about a week. Over the weekend it came out and its right next to the other one, they both take in food i been giving them a small piece of squid. I have the Ecotech Radion 1G have it set at 55% intensity at 14kPreset. I had it at 40% but some zoas were not looking good and the nems kept moving alot, sinced i raised it over a period of a month and a half the nems have stop moving as much and the zoas and other corals are looking good. one of the nems tentacles look like they are starting to come out again, the other still no change. light period starts at 8am and it ends at 11pm going from 1% intensity to highest 55% and back down to 0.

    1. Hello,
      I wish I could give better advice here but I do not have a lot of experience with nems under LEDS. However It seems like the lighting period you have here could be too long?
      I realize it is a ramp up/ down effect but I currently keep my nems under metal halides with about a 5 hour lighting period. Your lights “on” seems way to long. Anyway you could experiment with a shorter lighting period ?

  5. i could give that a try, since the tank sits in the living room does the day light count as light? it does get pretty lit up early in the morning before lights go on. i will attempt to set up another shorter light period. thank you

    1. Would this be the very first live rock for your tank?
      Such as your setting up a brand new tank from scratch?
      If you are then I would advise against it, the Nem would probably die in a brand new tank.

      However if your tank has been established for 6 months or more and your just adding a piece or two of live rock then yes you should be fine as long as your other water parameters are stable.

  6. Hi tom, glad I found your article… I have a BTA.. it recently ate one of my sick clownfish… Next day it started shrinking.. While typing this it just expelled the body of the clown. Tried feeding it brine directly but it didn’t take any. Do you think I can send you the pictures so that you can help assess the situation? Thank you

    1. Sure thing your welcome to send me pictures and I’ll have a look! You can send them to service@corallore.com .
      However I wouldnt find it uncommon for the nem to shrink and not take any food after trying to eat something it didnt like.
      Hope its looking a little better and Ill keep an eye out for your pictures.
      Thanks!

  7. Hey Tom,

    So first off thanks for the article, I realized my nem was starving and I believe my shrimp were stealing the food from it for awhile. IT looks alot like your last pic and I have taken advice from this article and a few others and have been feeding the RBTA daily both silversides and mysis. It consumes both but the silversides are easier to feed since it doesnt hold on to the mysis as well. I have noticed some pink coming back in the tentacles and some are getting longer than others but I am still afraid it isnt imporving. Can I send a pic to you using the email you listed in a previous post so you can point me in the right direction? Thanks.

  8. Thanks for all your advise. I’ve had my anemone for 2 weeks.its been doing great. The 2 clowns have found it. For last 2 days for short periods he has been not sure if its shrinking or deflating. But his tenecles go inside body almost all the way. I thought he died at first.he also moved in between 2 rocks on bottom of tank 2 days ago,when his tenecles are out he is lively, clowns run in and out. Do you think he’s not eating enough,,I feed frozen brine to my fish as well nightly. And he gets a price of shrimp e edy 3 days. He was on the side of glass before so it was hard to see his mouth. All my water tests are perfect. Love yr posts from everyone,,

    1. Hello DeeDee,
      From what you are describing I would say your anemone sounds normal. Moving off the glass to shelter between rocks and the occasional deflating is perfectly okay. Feeding once every 3 days is plenty especially since it’s probably getting some of the other foods you feed to the clowns on a daily basis. If you want to send me a picture of the anemone deflated i will take a look just to make sure everything appears healthy.
      Thanks for the comment!

  9. I have some concerns regarding a rbta that I acquired about a month ago. After about two days of placing it in my tank it appeared very bleached. I though maybe the lighting was too much for it so I moved it farther down the tank. This explaination really did not make sense to me however because the previous owner kept it under metal halides and I only have the stock lighting in my biocube which is two 32w pc bulbs. Otherwise it seems to do ok although does not extend as much as it did in the other tank. I will be trying to spot feed it more after reading this, however is that was is causing the bleaching? It has turned very white, as well as the frogspawn that I got the same day. Any input would be fantastic! Thank you. I will send pictures to the above email.

  10. My bubble tip from day one moved around to the back of my rock it’s dark and can’t see him to feed ect. It’s been just over a week now but only get chance to see it if I take a blind video recording hoping I point it to the correct spot. Any ideas if it will come out

  11. hi, I have had my anemone for 2 weeks and his behavior is throwing me off. Tonight I had the lights off and for the first time he either shrunk or deflated. Basically all his tentacles looked like they where inside his mouth. When I turned the light on in the tank he has slowly started puffing back up, should I leave the light on or if this happens again just leave him alone til my normal time for the lights.

    1. Hi,
      I wouldnt change your lighting schedule. It’s better that you let the nem get used to the light schedule then blast it with lighting 24×7.
      Looking smaller / shrunken at night is normal behavior. However im not sure how much you are saying it is deflating, too much could also be a bad sign. Do you have any other corals/ anems in the tank currently?

  12. Hi – Thank you so much for all the Nem info and good responses. I’ve had my first BTA for about 2 weeks now, and it crawled into my overflow on it’s third day in my tank (through the screen, without even moving it) right after my clown acted like it was catnip as it was clearly still acclimating. So anyway, it’s been in there almost 2 weeks. I’ve tried coaxing it out with food, and irritating it out with an ice cube in a bag upstream. It has wandered around inside of this HOB overflow, in various shapes (all of which I would describe as pouty). I’m worried about survival – obviously. My standard parameters are fine so I’m not sure how to coax it out, as I really don’t want to irritate it. It’s foot is good, and whenever I’m sure it’s dying, it seems to perk up.

    1. Hi Kris,
      Sorry it took so long to rely i was out of the country.
      Have you had any better luck with your nem? I wouldnt try to move the nem on your own. If it’s already stressed out moving it could make it worse and cause it to stop holding onto rocks all together and just float around your tank.
      The best advice I can give you is to just offer it food every day, very fine small peices, and leave it alone otherwise.
      I hope it pulls through!
      Let me know how it goes

  13. Just purchased (2 weeks ago)my first RBTA. It looked a little stressed at the LFS; Out stretched tentacles, flattened wide apperance. I took it home, acclimated, and a few days later it at a nice chuck of shrimp. The tentacles are more bulbed looking, but the overall apperance is still abnormal. It is very wide with the tentacles only being around the outside. Mouth is not gaping at all. It is placed toward the top of the tank in a nice “U” shaped area of the rocks with moderate flow, and good lighting. All parameters are fine, I am at a loss as to what to do to help it.

  14. Hi,

    I was given a yellow sebae by a fish shop for free as they did not have the right stuff for it as it was a tropical fish shop only. It is most likely dyed that colour and it has been doing well for the two months we have had it. Though in the last week or so it has moved from the front of the tank to the back and has now shrivelled up and starting to got black and have gunk coming off it. I think it is going to die. Is there anything I can do, I have taken it out of the tank as I think the clown fish were stealing food off it.

  15. Hi Tom,
    I’m unsure if I have a Heteractis crispa (Sebae) or Heteractis magnifica (Ritteri) anemone. I say I’m unsure mainly because it was sold as as a “Sebae”, but it never made it’s home in the sand, but rather perched on the highest rock, quite happily being rocked back and forth by the wave makers, directly under one- of two HQI 250w MH lamps. The MH ran 6.5 hours, combined with two 90w actinics running 10hours. This was in a 120 (24″x24″ x48″) with a good amount of live rock,2″sand bottom, multiple fish, including breeding pair of Clarki clowns.
    The anemone was pretty well bleached out when I got it- but made a nice recovery over a period of six months, fed small chunks of silver sides. The hosting Clarki’s would offer any chunks of silver side they would catch too. The anemone grew to roughly 10″-12″ across over a 3 year period.
    …….And then I moved to a new house. New (180Gallon) tank, sump, LED lighting (2 see specs at- http://www.lumentek.com/lumentek-pro-180.html) , and additional rock and sand. All contents of the original tank (minus 50% of the original sand- felt there was too much die off during the trip) made the transfer, over a period of 3 months. Livestock was last to go.
    During the last 9 months, the anemone moved from the highest rock ,to the glass
    (slightly higher, but more current path) and has been shrinking. I’ve noticed the Clarki’s no longer will feed, but steal food from it. The tentacles have become quite short and stubby. Still has good tan/purple color -no white except the very tips of some tentacles.
    I currently resumed feeding chunks of silver side daily- and making sure it’s totally (now, longer than normal) consumed before leaving, since reading the info above.
    Would appreciate any thoughts on new tank/lighting that may help in recovery. Specifically, too much vs too little LED light/ wrong spectrum compared to former setup.(fixtures set to ramp up-down over 12 hour period, with all 3chnnels peaking at 60%, to simulate noon). Perhaps lack of available plankton from 5 year old, mature former tank??? Note – tank has always had large frogspawn, large leather,s, large candy cane, multiple zoas and mushrooms.
    Hope any input may help others making changes to their tanks, that are home to an anemone.

  16. Hi, this info it’s very helpful. I have a carpet ane. it was green and it was big, I notice it shunk and it’s white now, I wonder if this would apply to them too. also we notice she started moving a lot in the tank from place to place

  17. Hi Tom,

    My bubble tip has been in my 5 gallon nano for about one month now. I have it near the bottom of the tank on live rock. I run coralife two 6 watt t5 lamps for about 10-12 hours per day. I feed it shrimp twice per week, but it shrinks randomly for a few hours every now and then. I know you said in your article this might signify the nem releasing waste, but I was wondering if I need to increase feedings or adjust my light schedule. I also do weekly water changes and all params are good. My two clowns haven’t hosted it yet, and I don’t think they take food out of its mouth. Thanks for your help.

    1. Besides shrinking for a few hours does the nem appear healthy and attached to a rock/rubble?
      If it still appears healthy I wouldn’t change anything, shrinking randomly too me is a normal action.

  18. hi I have a wet dry 60 gallon tank. I figure 10 gallons in the wet dry so 70 gallons how often should I do water changes with the enemies I have two rose tips… The other rose tip split one started floating I didn’t know I had to toss it so do I do a water change now I assume I should I do not have metal halide lights yet I have a actinic 50/50 fluorescent.
    in my book I don’t believe LEDs will suffice. would I be right in assuming that

  19. Wow I almost give up until I come to this site and my Rose Bulb Anemone is indeed only hungry. It shrinked for over a month now, I thought its because I did 70% water changed due to bad red slime algae, I thought it shrinked because my aquarium itneed more good bacteria and waiting for weeks and my anemone looks so bleached and small…
    I dipped my mysis shrimp into garlic, turn off my wave maker and feed my anemone direct to its mouth and hold it for few seconds until it close up, and after 4 days my RBTA is rosy as before and looks so happy.

  20. Hi, I bought a green bubbletip anemone about two weeks ago and I’ve noticed its shrunken to about 2/3 the size it was. It has been eating and releasing waste just fine (both about once a day). This was my second BTA (The first one starved within a month). Another thing is that it seems bigger and healthier at night. Is this normal? And how can I keep it from shrinking any more? I don’t want to repeat my mistake!

    1. Hi Ethan,
      This sounds like a lighting issue. The light you have it under may be brighter than what it is used too. As long as their is ample rockwork for the nem to hide under it will slowly adjust to the new light and hopefully return to its former size given time.

      1. thanks so much! Until now I have been trying to get it into more light and it has continued shrinking. Just this morning it hid inside of a cave.

    1. If its pulling into a cave I wouldnt try to force any food upon it. This could take up to a week or even a little longer for it to start poking out.
      Hopefully it’s hiding from the lights and will adjust and not shrinking up from a water quality issue.
      The lack of food for a week or two wont kill it, so just be patient and see if it can find a spot it likes and will poke out.

  21. It’s been around 3 weeks and I still can’t find it. I know the general location of where the nem is located (inside of a 20 lb live rock). Is there anyway I could entice it to. one out? I’m getting a little worried.

  22. So my anemone has been with me for about 10 years. Was bleached severly and not sticky when i got it. I fed it small 1/4″ pieces of siversides 3x day, for 3 weeks, it became sticky and soon up to 18″ big. So I should know how to save it, right? Well, it has been shrinking for months. I finally seperated it from the tank mates in a clear hangon shower box inside the tank, it was not getting the food or if it was would soon let it go. It has been over a month. Nothing has changed it is white, refuses to eat ANYTHiNG, is about the size of a small fist and Tenticles are short 1/2″ and white, with no sticky. Honestly I am about to give up. I hold the food in its very tightly closed mouth for up to 30-60 min 1-3 times a day. I have seen it openly except a very small piece of shrimp once last week, but nothing since.
    It still will respond to “some” stimuli, but barely opens its mouth but then shuts it tight if i try and feed it, or lightly squirt food over it. So i have tried : cyclopeze, coral frenzy, flake foods, all kinds, algae drops, shrimp, silversides, krill, mysis, garlic soaked foods. Nothing. But yet i. The last 30 days, it looks exactly the same no better, no worse, any suggestions!

    1. Have you recently changed any of your tank parameters such as light or salinity, to cause your nem to start shrinking?

      Is the nem getting the correct amount of light In its current tank?

      Have you tried feeding it brine shrimp(thawed out)? Maybe once every three days and see if it will eat that. That’s usually my go to food when I have nems in trouble.

      1. I have changed nothing, recently. However, I used to have t-5 bulbs and over the last 1 1/2 yrs. I have slowly switched them out to led lights. I did try live brine shrimp, but I suppose they were too fast for him. I have been successful two more times this week at getting him to eat. And the last time 2 days ago, he ate ” alot”. Tonight, the jury is still out. He is at least opening his mouth now (a little during feeding), he just doesn’t always eat the food. I am saturating him with everything so hoping he is sucking in at least something. I worry because he is not staying stuck down unless there is NO movement on him. So tonight I put a rock in the basket with him in hopes he will feel more secure, seems to like it, or just wishful thinking

  23. Hi, I’m worried about my nem… We have had it for about four months now, our tank parameters are stable. We have a 55 gallon tank with two baby clowns, a baby blue hippo tang, a four striped damsel, and a spiny puffer. Also our cleaning crew and the Pom Pom anemone. She is usually big and beautiful, but right now has shrunk to about 1/3 her size, her tentacles are gray and limp. She usually deflates and closes up slightly at night but not like this. Her foot is still slightly inflated but not much more. She has never done this during the day. Am I being overprotective? Is there anything I should be doing? I usually feed her ground up silverfish with some Arctic pods mixed in. She will eat an entire fish and about a half cc of the Arctic pod mixture as well before she will close up. The pet store told us to feed her once every other week or once a week at most. However we have found that she is very hungry about every three days if not every other day, are we feeding to often? The only thing we have added is a power head, not pointed at her, because she doesn’t seem to like movement.

  24. I just bought a bubble tip. The next day I found it under a rock with a couple of tentacles sticking out. Should I disassemble the rocks to get him out or should I blow food under the rock with a turkey baster?

    1. The nem is probably there because it feels safe and needs time to acclimate to your tank. Best leave it alone and lwt it move around on its own till it finds where its happiest.

  25. Hi
    I have 7 small BTAs of diff colors. I am trying a propagation tank. My nems close most afternoons after the daylight lights go off and they seem to be slowly loosing color a bit. Only thing I’m having trouble with is ph won’t get over 8.2. Every thing else is within good levels. It is a shallow tank and I’m not sure if my light is too low or too high. I don’t have a par meter but do have a lux meter. I’m at 2,600 lux at bottom and 4,100 at waters surface

    1. Are you providing several hiding spots for your nems? They could give you an indication on if the light is too bright or not. If it’s too bright and they have good hiding spots they will crawl into a hiding spot to avoid the light. If thats the case you will need to ramp up the light slowly.

  26. My ritteri has been having stringy “hair like”deflated tentacles but the oral disc is inflated. I tried feeding it with table shrimp cut into a small piece. It will stick to it but eventually let go. If I drop the food in the mouth, the oral disc will go into phases of contraction and deflation will also close up and open up really wide with the internal organs inflated around the food. What happens then is that it’s tentacles will reach into the mouth and stick into the food and gradually pull the food out. Now, these tentacles and uninflated, very thin almost hair like but still sticky?!!! If I turn the current off, I see individual movement of the tentacles like they will “flicker”. The nem attaches to the glass with isolated pin point areas of it foot and at the back of its oral disc. It will occasionally spray a very light brown liquid from its mouth. Or, some brown solid stuff that looks like fish poop that’s size of a grain of sand. I have a bottomless 250 reef tank with LED set at 50% intensity in Blue and 30 % intensity of whites. Light is about a foot hanging above water surface. It’s mainly an LPS tank. Parameters are within normal limits. The tank is also currently fallow due to recent ich infestation. Please advise. Thanks

  27. Some of them haven’t even tryed to move. And I don’t have much hiding places. Like I said it’s a shallow tank. Only 10 inches of water. That’s why I was hoping you might be able to help me interpret the lux reading. I could put hiding spots but they are harder to remove when You sell them so I’ll have to look for something that will work

  28. Hi,
    I have been worring about my nem for about two weeks now. It started to get be very small and its not eating. Iv been trying to feed it and it looks like its going to eat the shrimp but then it spits it out. I really dont know what to do any more im afraid it might die if it doesnt eat. I would really love some advice on what I could do to help my nem go back to normal self.

  29. I have a question about carpet anemones if you could help. I had my last one for 3yrs until it got too big. My new one was very sticky and had a vicious sting! Before it footed a giant turbo snail went by and it footed to the snail. The snail went up the glass dragging the anemone straight into one of my powerheads! It was there for about an hour and a half before I saw it and got it out. Some of the tentacles were sheared off but no foot damage. I’ve separated it from other tank inhabitants and the damaged parts have sloughed off. It’s opening up under lights but mouth is open and it’s not sticky like it was anymore. And not eating. Any ideas of how to nurse it back to health?

  30. Marc,

    I have had a rose bubble tip anemone in a 40 gallon tank for over a year. The tank is an all in one. Plenty of live rock, protein skimmer, 4 fish (2 clowns, goby, wrasse) and mostly SPS corals, one rock flower anemone. About a year in my anemone split. One day it was looking good (clowns host in the anemone) and the next day there were two smaller anemones where there had been one. I decided to move one of the twins to a second tank which is a 20 long housing three clowns. The 40 gallon tank is driven by a Kessil 360 LED lamp, and the 20 gallon 2 T5s. The water quality of both tanks is similar (I use same mix to do water changes on both tanks, both have similar live rock, protein skimmer, run at around 78 degrees).

    Here are the differences: the anemone in the 40 is staying small – and maybe shrinking. Its color is more translucent than in the past. I feed it directly 1-2 a week. The clowns try to host it but its very small so not so effective. They are eyeing my brain and hammer corals now. Only changes to the tank in the last year are a gradual ramp of the intensity of the Kessil from 60% up to 85% for 4 hours a day, the addition of a rock flower anemone which has settled next to the RBTA,

    The twin in the 20 gallon tank is growing slowly and has much brighter color. It is never fed directly. It looks much healthier. It is a brighter color, growing slowly etc.

    One factor that I also want to include is that I picked up a new refractometer and my salinty was very high for the past year 1.3. I slowly moved it down to 1.26. I have not seen a difference since the change in either tank.

    My own conclusion has been the LED v. T5 being the the primary reason why the BTA twin is doing well v. the original which is not. I’d love any thoughts you have on this “experiment” of sorts.

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